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Disaster Supplies Kit
After a disaster, local officials and relief workers will be on the scene, but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours, or it may take days. Basic services, such as electricity, gas, water, sewage treatment, and telephones, may be cut off for days or even weeks. You may have to evacuate at a moment's notice and take essentials with you. You probably will not have the opportunity to shop or search for the supplies you will need. A Disaster Supplies Kit can help your family stay safe and be more comfortable after a disaster.
What is a Disaster Supplies Kit?
A Disaster Supplies Kit is a collection of basic items that members of a household would probably need in the event of a disaster. The items are stored in a portable container(s) near, or as close as possible to, the exit door. Every household should assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit and keep it up to date. The number of people in a household and their ages and abilities will determine how many containers will be required to carry the kit items.
What to Tell Children
Parents and caregivers should:
• Involve children in disaster preparedness at home so they are aware of the need to prepare and know what is being done. As they are able, have children help plan and assemble kits and put them where they will be ready if needed. Involving children is the first step in helping them know what to do in an emergency.
• Ask children to help the household remember to keep the kits updated by rotating the emergency food and water or replacing it every six months, and by replacing batteries as necessary. Children could make calendars and mark the dates for checking emergency supplies.
• Ask children to think of items that they would like to include in a Disaster Supplies Kit, such as books or games or nonperishable food items.
• Involve children in preparing plans and disaster kits for pets and other animals.
Assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit
You should assemble and maintain a portable Disaster Supplies Kit that you can use at home or can take with you if you must evacuate. In addition, if you have a vehicle, you should always keep it stocked with basic emergency supplies. (See ” Emergency Supplies for Your Vehicle”)
In a disaster situation, you may need access to your Disaster Supplies Kit quickly—whether you are sheltering at home or evacuating. Store the items in your kit in sturdy, clearly labeled, easy to-carry containers near the door, if possible. Duffel bags, backpacks, and covered trash receptacles are good candidates for containers. In addition to the three-day supply of food and water in your Disaster Supplies Kit, you should consider maintaining a two-week supply of food and water in your home. (See “ Storing Food and Water Safely”) Following a disaster, having the right supplies can help your household endure home confinement or evacuation.
Assemble the following items for use at home or in case you must evacuate. Pack them in easy-to-carry containers and label the containers clearly. (See below “Tips for Preparing Your Disaster Supplies Kit”)
• Food—a three-day supply in the kit and at least an additional four-day supply readily accessible for use if you are confined to home. You may want to consider stocking a two-week supply of food and water in your home.(See “Stocking and Storing Food and Water” and “Food and Water Safety During/Post Disaster”)
• Water—three gallons per person in the kit and an additional four gallons per person readily accessible for use if you are confined to home. (See “Storing Food and Water Safely”) and “Food and Water Safety During/Post Disaster”)
• Portable, battery-powered radio or television and extra, fresh batteries.
• Flashlight and extra, fresh batteries.
• First aid kit. (See “First Aid Kit Contents”)
• Medications—Prescription and non-prescription that are regularly used. Check with your physician or pharmacist on storage requirements.
• Cash and coins.
• Copies of personal identification, such as driver's licenses, passports, and work identification badges, and copies of medical prescriptions and credit cards.
• An extra set of car keys and house keys.
• Matches in a waterproof container.
• Map of the area marked with places you could go and their telephone numbers.
• Items for infants, such as formula, diapers, bottles, pacifiers, powdered milk, and medications not requiring refrigeration.
• Special items, such as denture needs, contact lenses and supplies, extra eyeglasses, and hearing aid batteries.
• Items for seniors, disabled persons, or anyone with serious allergies.
• Kitchen accessories: manual can opener; mess kits or disposable cups, plates, and utensils; utility knife; sugar and salt; aluminum foil and plastic wrap; reseal-able plastic bags.
• Household liquid bleach.
• For each person, one complete change of clothing and footwear, including sturdy work shoes or boots, raingear, and other items adjusted for the season, such as hat and gloves, thermal underwear, sunglasses, dust mask.
• Blankets or sleeping bag for each person.
• Small tent, compass, small shovel.
• Paper, pencil; needles, thread; small A-B-C-type fire extinguisher (See “Fire Extinguishers”); medicine dropper; whistle; emergency preparedness manual.
• Sanitation and hygiene items: toilet paper, towelettes, soap, hand sanitizer, liquid detergent, feminine supplies, shampoo, deodorant, toothpaste, toothbrushes, comb and brush, lip balm, sunscreen, plastic garbage bags (heavy-duty) and ties (for personal sanitation uses), medium-sized plastic bucket with tight lid, disinfectant, household chlorine bleach.
• Entertainment, such as games and books. Favorite comfort dolls, stuffed animals for small children.
• Roll of duct tape (10 millimeters thick) and scissors.
• Plastic sheeting pre-cut to fit shelter-in-place room openings.
NOTE: In the unlikely event that a certain type of chemical hazard causes officials to advise people in a specific area to shelter-in-place in a sealed room, households should have in the room they have selected for this purpose:
• Plastic sheeting pre-cut to fit room openings
• Duct tape and scissors.
Ten square feet of floor space per person will provide sufficient air to prevent carbon dioxide buildup for up to five hours. (See “How to Shelter-in-Place”) Local officials are unlikely to recommend the public shelter in a sealed room for more than 2-3 hours because the effectiveness of such sheltering diminishes with time as the contaminated outside air gradually seeps into the shelter.
NOTE: Always keep a shut-off valve wrench near the gas and water shut-off valves in your home.
Disaster Supplies Checklist for Pets
Prepare a pet disaster supplies kit that includes:
• Medications and medical records stored in a waterproof container and a first aid kit. A pet first aid book also is good to include. (See “First Aid Kit for Pets”)
• Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and carriers to transport pets safely and to ensure that your pets cannot escape. A carrier should be large enough for the animal to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may have to stay in the carrier for hours at a time while you have taken shelter away from home. Be sure to have a secure cage with no loose objects inside it to accommodate smaller pets. These may require blankets or towels for bedding and warmth, and other special items.
• Current photos and descriptions of your pets to help others identify them in case you and your pets become separated and to prove that they are yours.
• Food and water for at least three days for each pet, bowls, cat litter and litter box, and a manual can opener.
• Information on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behavior problems, and the name and telephone number of your veterinarian in case you have to board your pets or place them in foster care.
• Pet toys and the pet’s bed, if you can easily take it, to reduce stress.
• Other useful items include newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, grooming items, and household bleach.
Tips for Preparing Your Disaster Supplies Kits
Keep items in separate airtight plastic bags. This will help protect them from damage or spoiling.
• Observe the expiration or “use by” date on stored food and water. If you have prepared you own containers of water, replace them every six months to ensure freshness.
• Rethink your kit and family needs at least once a year. Replace batteries, update medicines, clothes, etc.
• Ask your physician or pharmacist about storing prescription medications. You may find that the best solution is to gradually acquire a reserve by refilling prescriptions a little early, but always using those on hand first to avoid having the expiration dates lapse. Be sure they are stored to meet instructions on the label. It may be difficult to obtain prescription medications during a disaster because stores may be closed or supplies may be limited. Keep copies of essential prescriptions with you at all times.
• Use easy-to-carry containers for the supplies you would most likely need for an evacuation. Label them clearly. Think about using:
-Large trash container with handles and a cover
-Camping backpack
-Duffel bag
-Cargo container that fits on the roof of your vehicle
-Insulated cooler that protects stored items in hot climates
• Store water separately to prevent damage from leakage.
• Always keep your cell phone with you, if you have one. Do not pack it in the kit.
Consider getting an extra cell phone battery to keep with your Disaster Supplies Kit
First Aid Kit Contents
*ACFAS MINIMUM RECOMMENDED FAMILY KIT CONTENTS
Assemble a first aid kit to include in your Disaster Supplies Kit and one for each vehicle.
Include:
Additional items may be added to personalize or customize this kit.
Family First Aid Kit Content Suggested Use
Absorbent Compress 5x9 dressing Cover and protect open wounds
Adhesive Bandages (Assorted Sizes) Cover and protect open wounds
Adhesive Tape (cloth) 1” To secure bandages or splints
Antibiotic Ointment packets (approx 1 g) Anti-infection
Antiseptic wipe Packets Wound cleaning/germ killer
Aspirin (Chew-able) 81 mg For symptoms of a heart attack**
Blanket (Space Blanket) Maintain body temperature for shock
CPR Breathing Barrier (w/one-way valve) Protection during rescue breathing or CPR
Instant Cold Compress To control swelling
Gloves (large), disposable, non-latex Prevent body fluid contact
Hydro-cortisone Ointment Packets (approx 1 g) External rash treatment
Scissors Cut tape, cloth,or bandages
Roller Bandage 3” (individually wrapped) Secure wound dressing in place
Roller Bandage 4” (individually wrapped) Secure wound dressing in place
Sterile Gauze Pad 3x3 To control external bleeding
Sterile Gauze Pad 4x4 To control external bleeding
Thermometer, Oral (Non-Mercury/Non-Glass) Take temperature orally
Triangular Bandage Sling or binder/splinting
Tweezers Remove splinters or ticks
First Aid Instruction booklet Self explanatory
*ACFAS is the American National Red Cross Advisory Council on First Aid and Safety
Note: Remember to include prescription drugs in a Disaster Supplies Kit. Because the storage requirements of prescription drugs vary, some may have to be added to the kit at the last minute. You may want to pin or tape a note to the outside of your kit container reminding you to take along prescription drugs if you have to evacuate.
First Aid Kit for Pets
A fully equipped household first aid kit contains almost all of the supplies you may need for your pets. A simple first aid kit for your pets should include these additional items in a waterproof container:
• Latex (or hypoallergenic material) gloves
• Gauze sponges ( a variety of sizes)
• Gauze roll, 2-inch width
• Elastic cling bandage
• Material to make a splint
• Adhesive tape, hypoallergenic
• Non-adherent sterile pads
• Small scissors
• Tweezers
• Magnifying glass
• Grooming clippers or safety razor
• Nylon leash
• Towel
• Muzzle
• Compact emergency “blanket” (available in the camping department of many stores)
• Water-based sterile lubricant
• Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent)
• Rubbing alcohol;
• Topical antibiotic ointment
• Antiseptic towelettes
• Insect sting stop pads
• Cotton-tipped swabs
• Instant cold pack
• Epsom salts
• Baby-dose syringe or eye dropper
• Sterile eye lubricant
• Sterile saline wash
• Safety pins (medium size 4)
• Tongue depressors
• Diphenhydramine, if approved by your veterinarian
• Glucose paste or syrup
• Styptic powder or pencil
• Plastic card (such as old credit card) to scrape away stingers
• List of emergency phone numbers including those for your pet’s veterinarian, an after hours
emergency veterinary hospital, and the National Animal Poison Control Center (1-
888-426-4435) and money to make a phone call.
• Petroleum jelly
• Penlight with batteries (AA)
• Clean cloth
• Needle-nose pliers
For a complete list of items for your pet first aid kit and detailed information on how to provide first aid for your pets, consult Pet First Aid by Barbara Mammato, DVM, MPH, a handbook sponsored by the American Red Cross and The Humane Society of the United States.
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Emergency Supplies for Your Vehicle
In addition to the basic vehicle safety items—properly inflated spare tire, wheel wrench, and jack—you should also keep a smaller version of your disaster supplies kit (See Disaster Supplies Kit) and a first aid kit (See First Aid Kit) in your vehicle. Include local maps where you drive, basic tools (pliers, adjustable wrench, screwdriver, etc.), flashlight and extra batteries, duct tape, reflective triangle, signal flares, a roll of quarters for vending machines, and essential fluids (oil, coolant and transmission fluid). Rags are helpful to wipe up fluid or cleaning grime off your hands.
You may also consider having a fire extinguisher, jumper cables, bottled water, nonperishable food, medications, toilet tissue and premoistened towelettes in case you breakdown or are stuck. Check your vehicle supplies regularly for expired or unusable items.
When driving in winter or cold climates, add a windshield scraper, snow brush, salt, sand, shovel, tire chains and warm clothing. Blankets or sleeping bags will keep you warm and can also be used to cover the ground if you need to get near the ground to make repairs or change a tire. Extra socks and shoes are helpful if your feet get wet or you are wearing non-waterproof shoes.
Stocking and Storing Food and Water Safely
Foods to Stock at Home and in Your Disaster Supplies Kit
Even though it is unlikely that an emergency would cut off your food supply for two weeks, consider maintaining a supply in your home that will last that long. The easiest way to develop a two-week stockpile is to increase the amount of basic foods you normally keep on your shelves. Check expiration dates frequently and follow the practice of first-in, first-out.
Pack at least a three-day supply of nonperishable food and water in your Disaster Supplies Kit to be used in case you need to evacuate. Three days worth of supplies should be enough to get you to a location that has additional supplies. This may be outside the impacted area. You need to have these items packed and ready in case there is no time to gather food from the kitchen when disaster strikes. Include both compact, lightweight items like dehydrated foods, which are easy to carry if you must evacuate, and canned foods like fruit, juices, and vegetables that supply a source of water. Choose foods that require no refrigeration, preparation, or cooking. If you must heat food, pack a can of cooking fuel, such as used for camping.
Do not pack gasoline, kerosene, or propane.
Familiar foods can lift morale and help people feel secure in time of stress. Try to include foods that everyone will enjoy. Look for foods high in calories, protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals. Look for canned foods with high liquid content in case water is scarce.
Specifically, consider packing:
• Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits, and vegetables.
• Canned juice, milk, and soup.
• High-energy foods, such as peanut butter, jelly, salt-free crackers, and energy bars.
• Trail mix (prepackaged or homemade).
• Comfort foods, such as hard candy, sweetened cereals, candy bars, and cookies.
• Instant coffee, tea bags.
• Compressed food bars. They store well, are lightweight, taste good, and are nutritious.
• Dried foods. They can be nutritious and satisfying, but may contain a lot of salt, which promotes thirst. If salt is a problem, used dried fruit, like raisins.
• Freeze-dried foods. They are tasty and lightweight, but will need water for reconstitution.
• Whole-grain cereals (oatmeal, granola, multi-grain).
• Instant meals. Cups of noodles or cups of soup are a good addition, although they need water for reconstitution and may contain a lot of salt.
• Snack-sized canned goods, which generally have pull-top lids or twist-open keys.
• Prepackaged beverages. Those in foil packets and foil-lined boxes are sealed and will keep for a long time if the seal is not broken.
• Foods for infants, elderly persons, or persons on special diets.
• Nonperishable foods for pets and other animals.
When selecting foods, keep in mind that :
• Salty foods are usually not a good choice because they will make you thirsty and drinking water may be in short supply.
. If your water supply is limited, you should avoid eating foods that are high in fat and protein, even if they are part of your emergency supply, because they require more water for the body to metabolize.
• Commercially dehydrated foods often require a lot of water for reconstitution and effort to prepare.
• Food packaged in glass bottles and jars is usually heavy and bulky, and the glass can easily break.
• Meal-sized canned foods are usually heavy and bulky, but they can be useful because they contain water.
• Whole grains, beans, and dried pasta require water and cooking time for preparation that could be difficult in a disaster situation.
If your electricity goes off and you lose refrigeration:
• First, use perishable food from the refrigerator.
• Then, use the food from the freezer. To minimize the number of times you open the freezer door, post a list of freezer contents on it. In a well-filled, well-insulated freezer, foods will usually still have ice crystals in their centers (meaning foods are safe to eat) for at least two days.
• Finally, begin to use nonperishable foods and staples.
(See below: Keeping Refrigerated Food Safe If the Power Goes Out.)
(See below: Food and Water Exposed to Floodwater, Fire, and Chemicals.)
Storing Water
Having an ample supply of clean water is a top priority in an emergency. The following guidelines will help you ensure that members of your household have sufficient water in an emergency situation:
• Keep at least a three-day supply of water, that is, a minimum of three gallons per person. It is strongly recommended that you store more if possible. Each person should have one-half gallon per day for drinking and one-half gallon for cooking and sanitation. A normally active person needs to drink at least one-half gallon of water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers, and ill people will also need more. Be sure to include drinking and clean-up water for your pets. The amount needed will depend on their sizes and the conditions. Remember that pets often drink more water than usual when under stress.
• To prepare the safest and most reliable emergency supply of water, purchase commercially bottled water. Keep bottled water in its original container and do not open it until you need to use it.
• Store bottled water in the original sealed container and observe the expiration or “use by” date.
• If you are preparing your own containers of water, follow the directions below for selecting, cleaning, and filling the containers with water:
• Purchase food-grade, water-storage containers from surplus or camping supplies stores to use for water storage.
• If you chose to use your own storage containers, chose two-liter, plastic soda bottles—not plastic jugs or cardboard containers that have had milk or fruit juice in them. Milk protein and fruit sugars cannot be adequately removed from these containers and provide an environment for bacterial growth when water is stored in them.
• Do not use glass containers because they can break and are heavy.
• Do not use cardboard containers, because they can leak easily. These containers are not designed for long-term storage of liquids.
• If storing water in plastic soda bottles or food-grade, water-storage containers, follow these steps:
• Thoroughly clean them with dish washing soap and water, and rinse them completely so there is no residual soap.
• Sanitize them and their caps by adding a solution of 1 teaspoon of non-scented liquid household chlorine bleach to a quart of water. Swish the sanitizing solution in the containers and caps so that it touches all interior surfaces. After sanitizing the containers and caps, thoroughly rinse out the sanitizing solution with clean water.
• To fill water containers:
• Fill them to the top with regular tap water. If the tap water has been commercially treated from a water utility with chlorine, you do not need to add anything else to the water to keep it clean. If the water you are using comes from a well or water source that is not treated with chlorine, add two drops of non-scented liquid household chlorine bleach to the water.
• Tightly close the containers using the original caps. Be careful not to contaminate the caps by touching the inside of them with your fingers.
• Place a date on the outside of the containers so that you know when you filled them. Store them in a cool, dark place.
• Replace the water every six months if not using commercially bottled water.
• Store your three-day supply in a handy place. You need to have water packed and ready in case there is no time to fill water bottles when disaster strikes.
Smoke Alarms
If you have a fire, smoke alarms can cut nearly in half your risk of dying in a fire. Smoke alarms sense abnormal amounts of smoke or invisible combustion gases in the air. They can detect both smoldering and flaming fires. National Fire Protection Association 72, the National Fire Alarm Code, now requires in new homes hard-wired, interconnected smoke alarms with battery back-up on every level of the home, outside each sleeping area, and inside each bedroom. It also requires that alarms be wired together so that if one sounds, they all sound.
• If smoke alarms are not already in place, at a minimum install them on every level of the home and outside each sleeping area. If a fire occurs inside a bedroom, dangerous gases can cause heavier sleep. For the best protection, install interconnected smoke alarms in each bedroom and throughout the home. When one sounds, they all sound.
• To prevent nuisance alarms, vacuum cobwebs and dust from your smoke alarms monthly. Never disable a smoke alarm, even if you experience nuisance alarms while cooking or showering. Clean the smoke alarm following the manufacturer’s instructions and, if possible, relocate it away from the kitchen or bathroom. If nuisance alarms are a persistent problem, look for a different type of smoke alarm.
• Use the test button to test your smoke alarms at least monthly. The test feature tests all electronic functions and is safer than testing with a controlled fire (matches, lighters, cigarettes). If the smoke alarm manufacturer's instructions permit the use of an aerosol smoke product for testing the smoke alarm, and you prefer that method, choose one that has been listed (examined and tested to appropriate product safety standards) by a third-party product testing laboratory, and use it in accordance with the product instructions.
• If you have battery-powered smoke alarms, replace the batteries at least once a year. (Replace the batteries in your carbon monoxide (CO) alarms at the same time you replace your smoke alarm batteries.) Some agencies recommend that you replace batteries when the time changes from standard to daylight savings each spring and then back again in the fall. "Change your clock, change your batteries."
Replacing batteries this often certainly will not hurt; however, data show that fresh batteries will last at least a year, so more frequent replacement is not necessary unless the smoke alarm begins to chirp. Also, Arizona, Hawaii, the eastern portion of Indiana, Puerto Rico, American Samoa, and Guam do not use daylight savings time.
Pick an easy-to-remember anniversary, such as your birthday or a national holiday, as the day to change the batteries each year.
• Replace your smoke alarms every 10 years. This is the recommendation of the National Fire Protection Association and the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Smoke alarms become less sensitive over time.
• Be sure to install smoke alarms in areas where pets are and in other buildings that house animals where humans can hear them.
Carbon Monoxide Alarms
Every home should have properly installed and maintained carbon monoxide (CO) alarms. CO alarms can help detect CO, a colorless, odorless gas produced by burning any fuel. Exposure to high levels of CO can cause death. The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu and include dizziness, fatigue, headache, nausea, and irregular breathing.
• Install battery-operated CO alarms or plug-in CO alarms with battery back-up in your home, according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. CO alarms should be certified to the requirements of the latest safety standards for CO alarms (UL 2034, IAS 6-96, or CSA 6.19.01). It is especially important to have a CO alarm near sleeping areas.
• Test and maintain your CO alarms according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• If your carbon monoxide (CO) alarm sounds, immediately move to a fresh air location and call for help. Remain in the fresh air location until emergency personnel say it is ok.
Because of the risk of CO poisoning, never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any closed room or where people or animals are sleeping. CO poisoning from fuel-burning appliances kills people in the United States each year.
CO can leak from faulty furnaces or fuel-fired heaters or can be trapped inside a home by a blocked chimney or flue. Burning charcoal inside a home produces CO.
Running an automobile engine in an attached garage can cause CO to enter a home and so can running a portable generator if it is near windows, doors, or vents, even if it is outdoors.
Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers for heating your home. Never use a portable generator in an enclosed or partially enclosed space, including in your home or in a garage, basement, crawl space, or other partially enclosed area, even with ventilation. Locate a generator outdoors and away from doors, windows, and vents that could allow CO to come indoors. Generators can produce high levels of deadly CO very quickly.
(See Portable Generators.)
Fire Extinguishers
• Consider having one or more working fire extinguishers in your home. An extinguisher rated “A-B-C” is recommended for home use. Many fire extinguisher models are designed for one-time use and cannot be recharged.
• Get training from the fire department or a fire extinguisher manufacturer on how to use your fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishers from various manufacturers operate in different ways. Unless you know how to use your extinguisher, you may not be able to use it effectively, or it could place you in greater danger. There is no time to read directions during an emergency. Only adults should handle and use extinguishers.
• Install extinguishers high on the wall, near an exit, and away from heat sources. Extinguishers should be easily accessible to adults trained to use them, and kept away from children's curious hands. Heat may make the contents less effective or cause the extinguisher to lose its charge more quickly.
• If you try to use a fire extinguisher on a fire and the fire does not immediately die down, drop the extinguisher and get out. Most portable extinguishers empty in 8 seconds.
• Look at your fire extinguisher to ensure that it is properly charged. Fire extinguishers will not work properly if they are not properly charged. Use the gauge or test button to check that there is proper pressure. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for replacing or recharging fire extinguishers. If the unit is low on pressure, damaged, or corroded, replace it or have it professionally serviced.
• Before you begin to fight a fire with a fire extinguisher, be sure that:
-Everyone has left or is leaving the home.
-The fire department has been called.
-The fire is small and not spreading.
-Your back is to an exit you can use quickly.
Thank you for your generosity.
Dennis
Dennis Sherrod
Executive Director
Alert 1 Weather, Inc.
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Portable Generators
Portable generators are useful when temporary or remote electric power is needed, but they also can be hazardous. The primary hazards to avoid when using a generator are carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning from the toxic engine exhaust, electric shock or electrocution, and fire. Every year, people die in incidents related to portable generator use.
Carbon Monoxide Hazard
Never use a portable generator in an enclosed or partially enclosed space. Portable generators can produce high levels of CO very quickly. When you use a portable generator, remember that you cannot smell or see CO. Even if you cannot smell exhaust fumes, you may still be exposed to CO. If you start to feel sick, dizzy, or weak while using a portable generator, get to fresh air right away. Alert others in the home or in the vicinity to get to fresh air. Do not delay. The CO from portable generators can rapidly lead to full incapacitation and death.
If you experience serious symptoms, get medical attention immediately. Inform medical staff that CO poisoning is suspected. If you experienced symptoms while indoors, have someone call the fire department to determine when it is safe to reenter the building.
Follow these safety tips to protect against CO poisoning:
• Never use a portable generator indoors, including in homes, garages, basements, crawl spaces, and other enclosed or partially enclosed areas, even with ventilation.
Opening doors and windows or using fans will not prevent CO buildup.
• Follow the instructions that come with your portable generator. Locate the unit outdoors and away from doors, windows, and vents that could allow CO to come indoors.
• Install battery-operated CO alarms or plug-in CO alarms with battery back-up in your home, according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Electrical Hazards
Follow these tips to protect against electrical hazards:
• Keep the portable generator dry and do not use it where it could get wet by rain or snow. To protect it from moisture, operate it on a dry surface under an open, canopylike structure. Dry your hands if they are wet before touching the generator.
• Plug appliances directly into the portable generator. Or, use a heavy-duty, outdoor rated extension cord that is rated (in watts or amps) at least equal to the sum of the connected appliance loads. Check that the entire cord is free of cuts or tears and that the plug has all three prongs, especially a grounding pin.
• Never try to power the home wiring by plugging the portable generator into a wall outlet, a practice known as “back feeding” This is an extremely dangerous practice that presents an electrocution risk to utility workers and neighbors served by the same utility transformer. It also bypasses some of the built-in household circuit protection devices.
• If you must connect a portable generator to the home wiring to power appliances, have a qualified electrician install the appropriate equipment in accordance with local electrical codes. Or, check with your utility company to see if it can install an appropriate power transfer switch.
• For power outages, permanently installed stationary generators are better suited for providing backup power to a home. Even a properly connected portable generator can become overloaded. This may result in overheating or stressing the generator components, possibly leading to a generator failure.
Fire Hazards
Follow these tips to protect against fire hazards:
• Never store fuel for your portable generator in the home. Gasoline, propane, kerosene, and other flammable liquids should be stored outside of living areas in properly labeled, non-glass, safety containers. Do not store them near a fuel-burning appliance, such as a natural gas water heater in a garage. If the fuel is spilled or the container is not sealed properly, invisible vapors from the fuel can travel along the ground and can be ignited by the appliance’s pilot light or by arcs from electric switches in the appliance.
• Before refueling a portable generator, turn it off and let it cool down. Gasoline spilled on hot engine parts could ignite.
Talking to Children About Disasters
You should not worry that talking about disasters will make children fearful. On the contrary, children are usually more frightened by what is whispered or not mentioned aloud than by matter-of-fact discussion. Let children speak freely about what scares or puzzles them—for example, “What will happen to my puppy if we have to evacuate?” “If there’s a flood and I’m at school, I won’t be able to find you.” Try to answer questions and address concerns with concrete, easy-to-follow information.
When helping children learn how to prepare for, respond safely during, and recover from a disaster, it is important to adapt your discussions, instructions, and practice drills to their skills and abilities. Be aware that young children can easily confuse messages such as “drop, cover, and hold on” (response during an earthquake) and “stop, drop, and roll” (response if your clothes catch on fire).
Tell children that a disaster is something that happens that could hurt people, cause damage, or cut off utilities, such as water, telephones, or electricity. Explain to them that nature sometimes provides "too much of a good thing"—fire, rain, wind, snow. Talk about typical effects of disasters that children can relate to, such as loss of electricity, water, and telephone service.
Give examples of several disasters that could happen in your community. Help children recognize the warning signs for each. Discussing disaster ahead of time reduces fear and anxiety and lets everyone know how to respond.
Be prepared to answer children’s questions about scary things that they have heard about or seen on television, such as terrorist attacks. Give constructive information about how they can be prepared to protect themselves.
Teach children how and when to call for help. Teach them to call 9-1-1 or your local
emergency telephone number. At home, post emergency telephone numbers by all phones and explain when to call each number. Include the work numbers and cell phone numbers of household members. Even very young children can be taught how and when to call for emergency assistance. If a child cannot read, make an emergency phone number chart with pictures or icons for 911, “daddy,” and “mommy” that may help the child identify the correct number to call.
Tell children that in a disaster there are many people who can help them. Talk about ways that an emergency manager, American Red Cross volunteer, police officer, firefighter, teacher, neighbor, doctor, or utility worker might help after a disaster.
Teach children to call your out-of-town contact in case they are separated from the family and cannot reach family members in an emergency. Tell them, “If no one answers, leave a voice message if possible and then call the alternative contact.” Help them memorize the telephone numbers, and write them down on a card that they can keep with them.
Quiz your children every six months so they will remember where to meet, what phone numbers to call, and safety rules.
Explain that when people know what to do and practice in advance, everyone is able to take care of themselves better in emergencies.
By including all members of your household—regardless of age—in disaster preparedness discussions, you will emphasize each person’s importance as a member of the safety team.
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